From ulysses1@ix.netcom.com Thu Aug 15 09:16:45 CDT 1996 Below are the steps for removal, clean-up, re-greasing, and re-installation of typical door latch mechanisms. These steps cover specifically '64-'74 Karmann Ghia door latches but should work for most any car. I performed the following work on my '69 Ghia. 1) Remove the armrest, window crank, finger latch & escutcheon, etc. Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver (or special tool if applicable), locate each door panel clip and pry them out gently from their holes. Some will break but they are cheap compared to a ruined door panel. The door panel is made of pressboard (a.k.a. Masonite) and may be rotted and crumbling from age & water damage so you want to be careful so as not to damage it. Some door panels are not available for replacement (especially authentic Ghia panels for some reason). With all the clips popped out, lift off the door panel (it hangs on a little hook in the center of the panel) being careful to avoid scratching the paint with those sharp door clips. 2) With the door panel off, remove the plastic film which covers the entire door (if its still there). Use a utility knife to cut along the outer perimeter while trying to save as much of it as possible. If you are planning to replace the plastic film, remove all of it and throw it out. Clean up any glue residue while you're at it. 3) Remove the door lock button. To remove the door handle and latch mechanism, you may need a tool called an impact driver. Basically it looks like a thick screwdriver with replaceable tips and a very heavy steel handle. The tool works by translating an impact on the end of the tool (by hitting it with a hammer) into rotational motion (like a screwdriver). Every time you whack the end, that energy turns the screw a tiny bit. You'll need it to replace the screws later but possibly you may need it now if the screws won't budge. Imapct drivers are frequently used on these kind of applications where a regular bolt or other headed fastener can't be used and a countersunk screw must be used (like on door hinges and latches). Use a little penetrating lubricant to help you along. After you have removed the 3 screws on the end of the door near the latch, the 4th one is located in line with the handle and is sometimes hidden under a small piece of door seal rubber. This 4th screw holds the handle onto the door. With all the screws out, the handle will slide forward (towards the front of the car) and should come out of its slot. The latch is now free. The only thing left is to disconnect the long connecting rod which goes to the finger lever. It is held in place with a special retaining clip. You'll have to look inside the door cavity with a flashlight to get a good look at it. Be careful not to break it. Remove the latch mechanism from the door. 4) Inspection. Ghia door latches are very well made but feature one weak point: the latch arm shaft. The latch arm is the funny shaped part that engages the striker plate in the door jamb. Look at a door as it appears on the car (see diagram). You see the 4 screws holding the latch, a stubby shaft and the arm attached to the end of the shaft. The arm looks like an artists pallette. The arm itself can wear a little but it's the shaft that is the weak point. | | __ |----------| | | shaft | | door |-------- | | | | | | | | <-- latch arm | ~ | If your door is not latching properly (refuses to close sometimes, left door pops open in a right turn, etc.) and you've adjusted the striker plate and/or door alignment properly, the latch could be the culprit. A real quick test is to grab the shaft & arm when installed in the door and see if there is a lot of play. If so, the shaft may be broken or partially broken. If it won't latch at all, perhaps there is a broken spring. With the latch removed, work the mechanism a few times. See if there are any parts binding or broken springs. Ghia latches have 3 or 4 springs. 5) Clean up. Soak the whole unit in a solvent (kerosene, paint thinner, or gasoline as a last resort). With a stiff brush and some old toothbrushes, clean off every bit of old grease. The only parts that come off the latch are the various springs. I would recommend against removing the large spiral spring as it is swedged into the latch shaft and can be difficult to reinstall. Use the toothbrush and some carburetor/brake cleaner spray to get at the really tight spots. The latch assembly is usually plated so there shouldn't be too much rust or much of anything. You want the whole thing very clean. 6) Closer inspection should reveal if the shaft is broken or crumbling to pieces. It will usually make the shaft & arm flop all over the place. Since the passenger door is used less, you may want to remove both latches and compare them side by side. Do not interchange parts. You'll notice if there is too much play in the shaft from wear or damage due to improper door alignment. The shaft, latch arm, and pawl (the jagged thing under the large spring) are all pressed together as a unit. I managed to fix my latch by forcing some shims underneath the pawl to correct the "floppy-ness", but this is not easy to do and I plan on purchasing a rebuilt unit as soon as I can afford it. If you have a broken spiral spring, you may be able to purchase one from some of the Ghia-specific suppliers. 7) Regrease. Using a general purpose lithium grease (clear or white), grease everything liberally. Be sure to force as much grease as possible where metal parts are sliding against eachother. Brush some grease all over the springs as well to extend their life. 8) Reinstallation. Basically, everything goes in the way you took it off. Have someone help you attaching the little connecting rod and guiding the lock button rod up through it's hole. Don't forget to use the impact driver to tighten the screws properly. When everything is bolted in and tight, work the mechanism several times and add a little grease here and there where you think it needs it. Before you replace the door handle, you may want to remove the lock cylinder and lube it too. It is under the little cam that works the lock part of the latch and is held onto the handle with a single Phillips head screw. Be careful how the cylinder comes out of its bore. Use a very light grease on the outside of the cylinder. Use powdered graphite (available from locksmiths) for the inside of the lock cylinder. Replace the plastic film over the door if necessary. As mentioned in a previous post, 3 or 4 mil plastic drop cloths are available at paint stores and work quite well. Visqueen is a thick plastic sheet used by the construction trade under concrete foundations as a vapor barrier. This stuff works great if you can get it. Glue it on the door using rubber cement or some other adhesive. Re-install the door panel using new clips if necessary and adding little rubber anti-squeak "socks" to each clip. They are available thru various outlets and are used extensively by Bug enthusiasts. For those wishing to replace their latches (Ghia's that is), House of Ghia sells remanufactured units for cars '64 - '74. at $80.00 each. They dismantle the unit, straighten the latch frame, replace and machine the shaft (or sleeve as they call it), reassemble & lube. There is an additional $35.00 core deposit refunded to you if your old latch is rebuildable. Good luck to all. E-mail me if you have any questions. --------------------- ulysses1@ix.netcom.com '69 Ghia coupe '86 Golf GTI ---------------------